March 10, 2021
The railway system has a casualty figure touching
With the establishment of flourishing textile mills, affluent and enterprising
people began to settle down in the city, who were naturally jewellery buyers.
Curiously, the recent stampede happened on the Elphinstone Road side of the FOB
connecting Parel and Elphinstone Road stations, while Elphinstone Road has two
accesses to two FOBs and two to the ROB. Just as suburban rail services were
extended up to Borivali, then Virar and now Dahanu on the WR; and Thane, Kalyan,
then Karjat and Kasara, and now Khopoli on the CR mainline, the Harbour line has
expanded across the Thane Creek, reaching Thane in the north and Panvel towards
the south in the Mumbai Metropolitan Region (MMR).The city also began to take
shape according to the needs of its burgeoning population.
The stairway where
the stampede took place is located at the western end of the only connector FOB
leading to the exit point on the road directed towards the north.(Sudhir Badami
is a transportation analyst). This apathy was so great that even after offices
replaced mills and the stations started seeing a manifold rise in footfalls,
their facilities remained almost unchanged.The Mumbai Suburban Rail Network is
operated by two Divisional Railways — the Western Railway (WR) and the Central
Railway (CR), formerly known as the Bombay, Baroda and Central India Railway
(BB&CI) and the Grand Indian Peninsular (GIP) Railway.With our commitments
to contain global warming and climate change, travelling rapidly on the ground
is definitely better than travelling by air.These chawls, generally located in
close proximity to mills, were situated in Dadar, Parel, Chinchpokli, Byculla
and Mahalaxmi, and workers generally walked to their respective mills, while
using the railway or trams to commute farther distances.In this context, one has
to view the stampede of September 29.
However, so long as such mega projects
keep getting implemented, the upgradation of existing infrastructure is likely
to be overlooked. Today, platforms are nearly 300-m long and many of these
stations have access to one foot overbridge (FOB). All China mechanical stretch fabric
Suppliers these stations, which were catering to six coach trains, were
increased to accommodate 12-coach rakes over time and there has hardly been
investment in facilities matching the growth, other than lengthening the
platforms. The long-term measures are essentially to reduce usage of the
suburban railway system to design capacity so as to totally eliminate the
current annual casualty figures. Therefore, it is ill advised to proceed with
priority when the state of current infrastructure has such a dismal safety
record. However, employability in MCGM is still very strong and hence commuting
is also considerable. The mill areas have probably grown merely 20 per cent of
their potential.In this context, owing to the fact that the bullet train will
connect Mumbai and Ahmedabad in two to three hours, we can look forward to a
rise in economic activity. Historically, the BB&CI and GIP were set up to
transport exportable produce to Bombay Harbour and cotton to textile mills.The
plan to get a bullet train from Japan should be dropped entirely and deferred
until we establish our own technologies. The workforce of the textile mills,
which came from interior Maharashtra and the Konkan, resided in housing
tenements called chawls. For example, providing two additional FOBs on Parel
station.Over the years, stations were added on the lines, and a diversionary
line serving the dock areas known as the Harbour Line was established.Certain
short-term measures, if taken on a war footing, can prevent such tragedies.
Naturally, the commuter density on these two stairways must have been so high
that one person slipping could prove disastrous. Thus, due to railways and the
state government’s prolonged neglect, commuting facilities have been inadequate
and thereby unsafe.The second stairway at the same end is directed towards
south. Long-term measures are also to augment facilities for commuters to reach
platforms. Mumbai-Ahmedabad is the first phase of the Delhi-Mumbai Industrial
Corridor. The apathy of the "ruling class" towards the workforce and the
latter’s tendency to walk to work resulted in Mahalaxmi, Lower Parel,
Elphinstone Road, Chinchpokli, Parel stations not developing proportionally to
the increase in their usage and the population.
The railway system has a
casualty figure touching 3,500 per annum. It will definitely help increase
employability of Indians. The diamond and jewellery industry established in
Surat and Vadodara expanded, as did textile mills, which were already in place
at Ahmedabad. There are situations when north-bound and south-bound trains on
the CR and WR discharge people at Parel and Elphinstone Road almost
simultaneously. The city’s growth began to mirror that of its textile industry.
Such a dense commuter flow may not be there at all the suburban stations, but "a
tragedy waiting to happen" exists at practically every railway station during
the three-and-a-half-hour peak period every day. Though the population in the
MCGM has attained low growth rate, the MMR is rapidly increasing
population-wise. The MMR has an area nearly ten times that of the Municipal
Corporation of Greater Mumbai (MCGM). The situation at Parel station in
particular has been referred to as a "tragedy waiting to happen" in many
reminders by the people to the powers that be
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February 20, 2021
Total exports of textiles and apparel are expected
We want to continue to serve the MSMEs on the whole and we’re focusing on
executing exports of multiple products in order to set an example for various
industries that will ease the businesses around the nation regarding the
possibility of their product to be globally tradable. On top of it, the SME
needs to be intelligently cost-effective, which requires on point awareness of
the prevailing prices to play at the best margins. However, the opportunities
are huge out there and in recent times, the ways to make global trade easy and
mitigate trade risks have increased as well. Further, the total value of Yarn,
Fabrics and Made-ups exports of the country stood at US$ 14.In the future,
India’s apparel exports are expected to increase considerably.
Platforms such as
Connect2India help SME with global visibility and our platform value also
increases the trust in the SMEs capabilities to deliver. It processes billions
of rows of data to come up with useful trade insights and intelligence for
specific products, even at the lowest 8 digit HS Code level.Organic apparels
have great potential as well and their exports have been slowly but steadily
increasing. We believe, the first movers today will be the big ones tomorrow. To
be really able to grow your business globally, there is a need for making your
product, your brand a global brand, which also means, ‘Branded-exports’. Thanks
to our advanced analytics-based integrated trade platform we continuously
monitor the global markets for opportunities for our customers and prospective
customers.06 per cent and we believe SMEs would contribute a large part of it.
Global trading is perceived to be complex by SMEs, discouraging a huge number of
businesses from going global.Talk to us about your initiatives in order to
increase textiles and apparels export from India?We are taking a holistic
approach. A company with none or bad digital footprint is less likely to be
considered as the potential supplier. Only 1% of the SMEs in India participate
in global trade. Overseas buyers in this sector are generally sceptical to work
with SMEs and first-time exporters, but with Connect2India as a conduit, they
are now happy to work with this segment.
Total exports of textiles and apparel
are expected to touch US$ 82 billion by 2021 with CAGR of 12.India is one of the
worlds largest producers of Jute, raw cotton, cotton yarn, silk, synthetic fibre
and cellulosic fibre etc.Our integrated trade platform helps an SME to enter the
market.How can the garment industry SMEs, take advantage of your platform?We are
an end-to-end platform for global trade; our solution can help garment industry
SMEs from getting ready for exports to finding target markets and trade
counterparts to actually arranging and executing an order and turning those into
repeat and recurring orders. With the increase in market awareness, this segment
is expected to pick up quickly and grow in a big way. In the current age, global
consumers have become nature and health conscious and looking to move away from
traditional, chemical products. We also highlight these SMEs on our platform,
thereby giving them direct global visibility. The SMEs in this segment are nylon stretch
already globally competitive, we just need to make them globally aware and
globally visible and partner with them for end-to-end export. In conversation
with Pawan Gupta, Founder, Connect2India, who are currently working to onboard
more textiles, apparel, garments and customised products exporters as they feel
that it’s a huge global opportunity. An SME could be part of an export
initiative in the non-branded, contract and branded exports. The Indian textile
and apparel products, including cotton, silk and denim are highly popular
worldwide, along with many other products. for the destination country. We are
continuously using our extensive networks to get in touch with SMEs in the said
sectors and talking to them about the massive opportunities that are available
in the markets for them.What are the sectors you’re currently focusing on?The
sector Connect2India truly focuses on as a mission is the entirety of the MSME
segment. Having a good global presence and global visibility is one of the key
pre-requisites of going global.A good percentage of our current clients are in
Agro and Textiles and Apparels sector.Non-branded exports are more like
commodity export where there is no differentiation of positioning. We know for a
fact, that the market for textiles and garments is going to grow in the future,
presenting a massive opportunity for Indian manufacturers and merchants. This
combined with demographics; highly skilled workforce in this sector and friendly
export policies, the potential to increase our export of this sector is immense.
It’s good for a quick start and probably a good short term solution but it’s not
sustainable and definitely not strategic.At the moment, we are focusing on Agro,
textile and apparels, handicrafts, FMCG, Chemical and Polymers and Metal and
Alloys etc.The first step is to bridge the knowledge and information gap and
make these SMEs globally aware. While the government has been working towards
enabling exports, there has to be a change in the mentality of the SMEs as
well.Indian organic products have always been a preference by the global markets
and there is definitely a huge market out there for organic apparels.What are
the opportunities in the textile and apparel sector for Indian SMEs to
export?India is one of the largest exporters of textile and apparel products in
the world, with USD 37. All of these are available on our platform.74 Billion
exports in the year 2017-18.33 billion during 2017-18.It is important for an SME
to choose the right market and invest its resources intelligently.How vital you
think is ‘Global Branding’ for SMEs in global business?I would say, extreme! As
I said earlier, if you don’t have an adequate online footprint, you won’t even
be considered by new buyers.After this, the SME needs to be export ready and be
equipped with proper guidance and tools to communicate and arrange orders
globally.. These companies are ensuring fair supply chain and we are trying to
promote the export of apparel companies directly buying raw materials from these
cooperatives. More importantly, non-branded exports are only a part of business
growth. In addition, with our advanced date sciences and Machine Learning
Algorithms, we are able to make extremely accurate predictive analysis that
helps the exporters in making the right decisions regarding market entry at the
right time, country selection, trade counterpart selection etc. with Latin
America and Africa also building up as significant markets for our
products.Exporting in this sector is challenging for SMEs because of the number
of steps involved but with our integrated trade platform, worldwide network and
our trade experts, we are making it easy and effective for SMEs.For industries
such as Apparels, Garments and Textiles, the scope of branded exports and global
business expansions are huge, people are continuously looking to find ‘their
brand’ of apparel & garments, a brand that would be relatively unique for
them and suit them in style, and this is a global, upcoming phenomenon. Taking
advantage of our talented, multi-channel marketing team, we plan on using our
social media reach to spread information about the global market opportunities
for the textile and garment industry.The SMEs needs to be aware of export duty,
import duties in target countries, incentive and drawback schemes, real-time
freight rates, standard and specifications requirements, compliance requirements
etc. The main markets for Indian textile and apparel exports are US, European
Union, Parts of Asia, Middle East etc.To enable and empower an SME, it is
important for the SME to know its potential global markets, which can be done
through trade intelligence in the current, digital age. We are enabling SMEs to
go global and go big, we’re opening a market that is multiple folds of their
current potential market and the chances of realising that potential is immense.
Secondly, a business should have an adequate global presence to be considered or
attract global buyers. The industry is getting bigger and better each year and
India is currently one of the most preferred sourcing destinations for garments,
textiles, accessories and finish. This also enables the platform to help in
recurring orders and better terms based on our network and our relationship with
the overseas buyers. India’s share in the global trade of textiles and apparels
is around 5 per cent. There are companies in India which provide even the farm
level traceability for their organic apparel products. though we have customers
from other industry sectors as well.This is also a sector where huge numbers of
SMEs are involved.We are also working at the grass root level by working with
companies who are wholly (100%) owned by smallholder farmers’ (through their
cluster level cooperatives).How are you driving root-level change in this
sector?We’re making SMEs global enterprises, that are a root level change
according to us.What is the process of enabling and empowering these SMEs to
start exporting?To enable SMEs, especially in the said industries, the process
needs to begin from the root levels. Additionally, the execution of orders is
the most important aspect of ensuring safer trade. Selecting the right payment
terms, incoterms, logistics partners, service providers, financial body,
T&Cs plays a vital role
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February 06, 2021
Meanwhile, some 400 members operating individual
Meanwhile, some 400 members operating individual mills, under the banner of
Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF), in a letter to the Centre, said MMF-based
yarns were brought under 18 per cent, while MMF fabric brought under five per
cent.To buttress his point, he said that an independent weaving unit with around
50 looms and producing functional fabrics 100 per
cent viscose fabric would incur an additional cost of over Rs two lakh per annum
with 18 per cent GST rate on yarn when compared to a composite unit..Coimbatore:
The Textile industry in the region today expressed the hope that the June 18 GST
council meeting would consider reducing the GST rate on Man Made Fibres,
filaments and yarns from 18 per cent to 12 per cent.Even with 12 per cent GST
rate on yarns, the additional cost would be Rs 1.The Government could have
classified the entire textile value chain under five per cent to avoid such
problems or refund the accumulated input tax credit at every stage so that the
cost is not increased, level playing field is created and ensure proper
compliance.3 lakh per loom per year, thus creating an unhealthy competition
between composite and independent weaving units, he said.The differential rates
and non-refund of accumulated input tax credit would not only affect the
industry, but also lead to wrong declaration and corruption, he said. He hoped
that the Council would also include garments, made-ups and other sewn products
related to job work under five per cent GST rate of service tax.ITF secretary
Prabhu Dhamodharan in a statement urged the Council to fix MMF and blended yarns
under 12 per cent rate.This would significantly increase the fabric cost and
seriously affect the independent spinning and weaving sector, including
powerlooms, he said.There would be huge accumulation of excess credit with 18
per cent GST rate on yarn and only five per cent GST rate and non-refund of
accumulated input tax credit at fabric stage, Southern India Mills Association
(SIMA) Chairman, M Senthilkumar said in a statement here
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January 15, 2021
Bhagwat had then said that the Hindu culture
Bhagwat had then said that the Hindu culture has its genesis in the tribal
society.The RSS has already held discussions on 'samajik samrasta' (social
harmony) in its shakhas (morning get together classes) from January 3-10 in
Madhya Pradesh. "The sense of belongingness and sharing are the tenets of Hindu
religion.Shah had joined the Dalit sadhus and other saints in the holy bath
billed by the BJP as the ‘Samrasta Snan' with an eye on the Assembly Rabbit Fur Bath
Mats elections in the politically sensitive Uttar Pradesh next year.Bhagwat
squatted and ate meal with the sanitary workers (safai karamcharis) at Shri Guru
Karshanaik ashram here.Sangh Parivar head Mohan Bhagwat had stirred a
controversy by calling for a review of reservation policy during the run-up to
the Bihar Assembly polls last year.Men were given shirts and trousers while the
women workers were gifted Rs 100 and sarees," ashram's pontiff Swami
Omkaranandji said. Time has come that the tribal representatives stood up for
them and demand their rights," he had said. Ujjain: RSS Chief Mohan Bhagwat on
Friday had lunch with sanitary workers, many of them Dalits, engaged to keep
clean the site of the ongoing 'Simhastha Kumbh', a massive congregation of
Hindus, at Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh. Notably, BJP president Amit Shah on
Wednesday had participated in 'samrasata snaan' (bath for social harmony) and
'samrasta bhoj' (social harmony feast) with Dalit saints at the Kumbh Mela.He
had also addressed a 'Janjati Sammelan', a gathering of members of tribal
communities from Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh and other places, organised by the
VKP in Ujjain. RSS is running a nation-wide campaign this year to promote
"social harmony" among Hindus to woo tribals and Dalits which are key to BJP's
hopes of wresting power in Uttar Pradesh, going to polls next year. Bhagwat's
move is being seen as a step aimed at striking a chord with the tribals."God
helps those who help themselves," Bhagwat said on Thursday.RSS Chief Mohan
Bhagwat also took holy dip, 'samrasata snaan', in river Kshipra with the tribals
communities at the massive congregation. "The ashram management has invited
1,200 sanitary workers.Yesterday, Bhagwat had taken a holy dip with members of
tribal communities in the Kshipra river here.
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December 29, 2020
The idea behind the sustainable movement
"Musiri is well known for good quality cotton, predominantly used for saree,"
says Naushad who explains how he epicycles the traditional materials. But over a
period of time, it has lost its place in textile list," says Karishma whose
label Ka-Sha along with Craftmark has given a modern twist to this traditional
piece of fabric thats mainly used for saree or dress.. But now, designers and
entrepreneurs are looking to showcase fabrics and weaves that are an intrinsic
part of India’s heritage, thereby encouraging sustainability. It is but obvious
for the fabric to be expensive. In its seventh year, the upcoming edition of
Lakme Fashion Week will celebrate such indigenous crafts and artisans through a
series of curated shows that seeks collaboration between skilled artisans and
innovative designers from around the country.But, how viable is our sustainable
fashion market? Experts believe that fashion is no longer just about trends and
innovative designs, it is also a means to encourage dialogue on sustainable
choices. But it is so interesting that I have increased the weight of the fabric
in khadi, done a cut shuttle where I have done a colour contrast. It moves
through multiple hands and not a machine," she stresses. Inspired by the Chausat
Yogini Temple, the 64 tantric female deities of Odisha, designer Gunjun Jain’s
Yogini collection celebrates womanhood representing varied expressions of
modern-day Yoginis through handwoven sarees styled in experimental drapes teamed
with workwear blouses.
We have done a cut shuttle technique which was earlier
used in saree borders but not anymore as it is time-consuming and is expensive.
Naushad further explains that with sustainable fabric, a weaver can only make 1.
"A lot of effort goes into making a fabric giving an end product so pure that it
cant be replicated by a machine. "For instance, a stitch saree dress can be worn
during the day or at an event.We have worked with the traditional motif but with
a slightly modern twist, like polka dots but with zari and their traditional
white colours," explains Karishma.Her designs will have a special focus on
Odisha and will introduce hand woven khadi textures and fabrics.A weaver engaged
in the work of weaving. Keeping the same quality as the base fabric, we have polyester
stretch removed the borders and put gold throughout the fabric in simple
checks," explains Naushad who has also done a lot of layering, trench coats, and
bold jackets. From deep indigo blue to pastel mint green, Karishma has used a
colour palate of eight to nine colours along with a lot of white and silver
zari. The designer describes Kota Doria as a fabric with a very translucent
qualy yet not fragile.From Rajasthan’s Kota Doira to Odisha’s tussar silk
sarees, the stage will also be celebrating women spinners and weavers.
The idea
behind the sustainable movement is to make the fashion industry more socially
responsible by helping the artisans and weavers who work on traditional themes.
For instance, gold plays an important role in the saree down south and is
usually seen on the borders. Karishma seconds his opinion and adds that one
needs to understand where the product is coming from. "We tried to re-capture
the curvilinear ikats and have worked on a range of Ikat textiles known for
their intricate and fine lines, almost like thin pencil drawings," says Gunjan
adding that her designs also narrates the story of a 500-year-old textile tree
between Odisha and South East Asia. "We don’t use the material or the fabric as
it is as our aim is to have customers buy and wear it.Over the last few decades,
Indian fashion designers have made their mark in the global market with their
sartorial designs. It is handmade and the amount of human hours it takes is
precious. "Predominantly made by women, the fabric is sheer and light in nature
despite using a lot of zari work. It is not expensive because of its
sustainability, but because of the process that is involved," he says. "The
process is much slower, time-consuming and we work for four months on creating
the fabric.5meters a day. While brands such as Indigene and THREE have
collaborated with weavers from in Odisha and Bihar, designers such as Naushad
Ali will present a collection of handloom trench coats, trousers, dresses and
jumpsuits made by the Musiri weavers in Tiruchirappalli. The clothes have to be
contextual to our functional lives and I have tried to give it more shape,
forms, and technique that you wouldn’t see in this textile, inherently. Using
regional traditional techniques of Ikat and Jala, the couturier has given a
contemporary language to the classic temple border of ‘kumbha’ by reinterpreting
it in different ways.Since 2012, there have been constant efforts in bringing to
fore craftsmen and their work and the upcoming edition of the fashion week will
see handwoven fabrics from Rajasthan and Odisha, intricate khadi weaves,
Kanjivaram and ecological fibres. The best thing about the fabric is, you can
wear it in any season," she smiles. "It’s a simple fabric but with an
interesting grid pattern—that’s its trademark.Designer Karishma Shahani Khan who
will be presenting the work of Kota Women Weavers Organisation from Rajasthan
has picked Kota Doria - a fine fabric made of a blend of silk and cotton, to
showcase her designs.From rural West Bengal, Eka by Rina Singh is presenting
hand spun and woven textile using the technique of ‘Kata Makur Kaj’, as called
in rural Bengal or ‘Cut Shuttle’ in layman language.This year will also see
digitally driven designer-artisan collaboration with three clusters and
designers. We have also used woodblock in chintz print on the fabric," says Rina
whose collection also features Sojani embroidery from Kashmir on woolen dresses,
khadi, and linen
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